This underrated European capital excels in old-world glamour
The Independent

This underrated European capital excels in old-world glamour

Nicole Trilivas | October 16, 2025

With neoclassical architecture in ice-cream hues, candlelit Chopin concerts, and bygone confectioneries on every corner, Nicole Trilivas uncovers defiantly old-world side to this formerly drab and suppressed Eastern Bloc city once described as ‘the Paris of the North’

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